2014 Tsukiji Fish Market│東京築地魚市場

已有80年歷史的築地市場,因2016年東京奧運即將遷至豐洲市場,我決定前往一探這即將成為歷史的市場。
凌晨3:00,我起了個大早,從溫暖的被窩中掙扎爬起,從銀座三井花園飯店出發,步行約20分鐘抵達。凌晨的東京中央區,只有計程車與幾位酒客經過。空蕩的街道與溫和的氣候令人舒適,微風輕拂,落葉沙沙作響。

With an 80-year history, Tsukiji Market was set to relocate to Toyosu Market in 2016 due to the Tokyo Olympics, so I decided to visit this soon-to-be-historic site.
At 3:00 AM, I dragged myself out of warm bedding and set off from the Mitsui Garden Hotel Ginza, walking about 20 minutes. In Tokyo’s Chuo Ward at dawn, only taxis and a few late-night revelers passed by. The quiet streets and mild weather felt soothing, with a gentle breeze and the soft rustle of falling leaves.

IMG_3772

 

先步行至築地場外市場,幾間漁貨店已開門整理貨物。我向幾位工作的大叔問路,慢慢走到鮪魚拍賣的築地場內市場。
原本以為凌晨3:30參觀築地魚市場的鮪魚拍賣不會有太多人,沒想到休息室內擠滿了西方遊客。大家蹲坐著,熱鬧的聊天聲此起彼落,完全不像凌晨時分。

I first walked to the Tsukiji Outer Market, where a few seafood shops were open, preparing their goods. After asking some workers for directions, I made my way to the tuna auction at the Tsukiji Inner Market.
Expecting a quiet scene at 3:30 AM for the tuna auction, I was surprised to find the waiting room packed with Western tourists. Everyone was squatting, their lively chatter filling the air, hardly resembling the early morning hour.

 

IMG_1122

 

警衛請我們穿上每日限量140名的綠色與黃色背心,這是參觀鮪魚拍賣的通行證。過去,因觀光客參觀築地市場鮪魚拍賣常干擾交易,影響拍賣進行,因此市場開始限制每日參觀人數。
在門口休息室需等到清晨5:30才能開始參觀。我與來自澳洲和美國的情侶朋友一起,喝著販賣機的咖啡,閒聊分享在日本旅遊的點滴。一對美國情侶因太早來到築地市場,睡眠不足而小聲爭執,一會兒嘟嘴臭臉,一會兒轉頭不語。不久後,女生輕聲安撫男生說:「都是我的錯。」隨後兩人牽手和好,甜蜜如初。我們在一旁看得偷笑不已。

The security guard asked us to wear green and yellow vests, limited to 140 visitors daily, serving as passes for the tuna auction. Previously, tourists visiting Tsukiji Market’s tuna auction often disrupted the trading process, so the market began restricting daily visitor numbers.
In the waiting room at the entrance, we had to wait until 5:30 AM to start the tour. I joined a couple from Australia and another from the U.S., sipping vending machine coffee and chatting about our Japan travel experiences.
One American couple, exhausted from arriving too early, bickered quietly—pouting and turning away in silence. Moments later, the woman soothed the man, saying, “It’s all my fault.” They soon held hands, all sweetness again, while we stifled giggles nearby.

 

IMG_1146

 

IMG_1126

 

築地場內市場魚腥味濃重,許多形似SEGWAY的電動魚貨搬運車穿梭其中。進入拍賣場後,拍賣官請競標買家評估地上陳列的眾多漁貨。
拍賣官口中念念有詞,突然敲響鐵鈸,開始高聲喊價,聲音洪亮震耳,響徹整個場內。他一邊急促催促買家出價,宛如在音樂廳高歌的男高音,氣場十足。
參觀過程約30分鐘,坦白說不算特別有趣,反而像在進行社會人類學的田野調查,觀察鮪魚拍賣官、賣家與買家間的出價角力。

The Tsukiji Inner Market was filled with a strong fishy smell, with many SEGWAY-like electric carts transporting seafood. Inside the auction area, the auctioneer directed buyers to evaluate the array of fish laid out on the floor.
Chanting rhythmically, the auctioneer suddenly struck a metal cymbal and began calling out prices, his booming voice echoing through the market. Urging buyers to bid quickly, he resembled a tenor performing in a concert hall, commanding the entire space.
The 30-minute visit wasn’t particularly thrilling, feeling more like a sociological field study, observing the dynamic interplay of the tuna auctioneer, sellers, and buyers vying over bids.

 

IMG_1138

 

IMG_1149

 

參觀完鮪魚拍賣,從築地場內市場後門出口來到知名的壽司街。幾位西方遊客朋友提議排隊體驗名店「壽司大」,但店員告知需排隊3小時以上,令人卻步。於是,我與剛認識的澳洲和美國朋友道別,說了聲「Good Bye」。

After the tuna auction, I exited through the back of the Tsukiji Inner Market onto the famous Sushi Street. A few Western tourist friends suggested queuing at the renowned Sushi Dai, but the staff said the wait would be over 3 hours, which was discouraging. So, I bid farewell to my new Australian and American friends with a “Good Bye.”

 

 

Comments

comments

Written By
More from Scott

Mt.Fuji│慢遊河口湖富士山

  櫻花季期間...
Read More

發表迴響