『那是最美好的時代，也是最糟糕的時代』「It was the best of times. It was the worst of times」出自《雙城記》（A Tale of Two Cities）
從現代化的法國戴高樂機場2A航廈出發前往巴黎市區，因入住巴黎第9區歌劇院附近，選擇搭乘Roissy Bus直達巴黎歌劇院（Opéra）。Roissy Bus類似台中曾推行的BRT連結公車，採用雙節車廂的機場接駁公車。
Departing from the modern Charles de Gaulle Airport Terminal 2A to central Paris, I chose to stay near the Opéra in the 9th arrondissement and took the Roissy Bus directly to the Paris Opéra. The Roissy Bus resembles Taichung’s former BRT articulated bus, featuring a two-section airport shuttle design.
從Roissy Bus車窗外望去，巴黎郊區的景色變換令人感觸良多。當Roissy Bus從巴黎第18、19區的郊區邁向市中心的第8、9區，景色變化顯著，從殘破不堪的沒落荒涼、灰暗圍城，到富麗堂皇的法式皇室奢華風情。
Gazing out the Roissy Bus window at the shifting Paris suburban landscapes was profoundly moving. As the bus traveled from the rundown, desolate, and gloomy urban areas of the 18th and 19th arrondissements toward the central 8th and 9th, the scenery transformed dramatically—from dilapidated decay to the opulent French royal luxury.
巴黎第18、19區位於城市外圍，屬邊緣區域，聚集許多移民與移工，包括大量非裔人士、阿爾及利亞穆斯林、阿拉伯人及華人移民。然而，該區毒品、搶劫、詐騙等犯罪問題頻傳，治安狀況極差。
相較之下，巴黎第8、9區則擁有著名的巴黎歌劇院（Opéra national de Paris）、春天百貨（Printemps）及拉法葉百貨（Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann），類似台北信義區，可謂奢華購物的核心地帶。
Paris’s 18th and 19th arrondissements, located on the city’s outskirts, are home to many immigrants and migrant workers, including large populations of African, Algerian Muslim, Arab, and Chinese communities. However, these areas are notorious for frequent issues with drugs, robbery, scams, and other crimes, resulting in poor safety conditions.
In contrast, the 8th and 9th arrondissements boast iconic landmarks like the Opéra national de Paris, Printemps, and Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann, akin to Taipei’s Xinyi District, representing the pinnacle of luxury shopping.
在短短一小時從機場到市區的路程中，目睹巴黎貧富差距的巨大變化，令人感慨。從巴黎第18、19區的破敗景象到第8、9區的奢華風情，不禁粗略推測巴黎恐攻的部分原因：大量來自不同國家的移民與移工無法融入巴黎社會，缺乏就業與教育機會，宗教信仰差異導致貧富差距、種族歧視與社會孤立，進而衍生犯罪問題。
聯想到德國前總理梅克爾接納難民的政策，甘冒民調與聲譽風險，卻也帶來德國社會接納與治安的挑戰，這種勇敢的大愛決策令人敬佩。
出發前，我在台灣外交部的國人旅遊出國動態系統登記，巴黎台灣駐法國代表處迅速發送提醒信，警示旅人： 「亞洲人常有攜帶大筆現金的習慣，易成為歹徒目標，建議旅遊時避免攜帶大量現金，外出以刷卡為主，僅帶小額現金，注意財不露白。路遇乞討者、流動攤販或簽名請願者時，需特別提防財物安全。若遇路邊以杯子藏物遊戲的賭博行為，實為詐騙，切勿上當。若不幸遭搶（竊），請立即前往最近警局報案。」
原以為巴黎市區不需如此草木皆兵，但前往第10區的餐廳《Brasserie Julien》時，從聖但尼捷運站（Strasbourg Saint-Denis）一出站，6-7位彪形大漢（非裔人士）在KFC門口徘徊，彷彿伺機而動，盯著來往行人，令人不安。
走進聖但尼街區，街上瀰漫不安氣氛，菸蒂與垃圾滿地，潮濕刺鼻的氣味揮之不去，街頭巷尾數雙眼睛注視著旅人，令人不自在。停下來查看手機Google地圖時，馬上有人靠近搭訕說：「Do you speak English?」只能加快腳步離開。
回程搭公車在巴黎歌劇院附近下車，看到一位可能是敘利亞裔的難民父親，帶著約一歲的幼子在街頭乞討，場景令人鼻酸不捨。我快步將身上小額現金交給這位父親。然而，巴黎歌劇院前常有扒手與假問卷人士出沒，攜帶現金的旅人易成為目標。
我隨即走進旁邊的拉法葉百貨公司（Galeries Lafayette）避開人群。百貨內人聲鼎沸，購買奢侈品的喧囂此起彼落，抬頭望著富麗堂皇的穹頂裝潢，卻有種不真實的錯覺，彷彿置身於兩個截然不同的巴黎。
「It was the best of times. It was the worst of times」
In just an hour’s journey from the airport to central Paris, the stark contrast in wealth and scenery was striking. From the dilapidated, desolate 18th and 19th arrondissements to the opulent elegance of the 8th and 9th, it’s easy to speculate on some causes of Paris’s terror attacks: many immigrants and migrant workers from diverse countries struggle to integrate, facing unemployment, lack of education, religious differences, wealth disparities, racial discrimination, and social isolation, which can fuel crime.
Reflecting on former German Chancellor Merkel’s refugee acceptance policy, risking her reputation and public approval yet causing social integration and security challenges in Germany, her bold, compassionate decision is admirable.
Before departing, I registered with Taiwan’s Ministry of Foreign Affairs travel system, and the Taipei Representative Office in France promptly sent a warning: “Asians often carry large amounts of cash, making them targets for criminals. Avoid carrying large sums, use cards for payments, and keep only small amounts of cash. Be cautious of beggars, street vendors, or petition signers, and watch your belongings. Street gambling games with hidden objects are scams—do not engage. If robbed or pickpocketed, report to the nearest police station immediately.”
I assumed central Paris wouldn’t require such vigilance, but heading to the 10th arrondissement’s Brasserie Julien from Strasbourg Saint-Denis metro station, I encountered 6-7 burly African men lingering outside a KFC, seemingly watching passersby, creating an uneasy atmosphere.
Walking through the Saint-Denis area, the streets felt tense, littered with cigarette butts and trash, with a lingering damp, unpleasant odor. Multiple pairs of eyes followed travelers, making me uncomfortable. Pausing to check Google Maps, someone quickly approached, asking, “Do you speak English?” I hurried away.
Returning by bus near the Paris Opéra, I saw a man, possibly a Syrian refugee, begging with his one-year-old son—a heartbreaking sight. I quickly handed him some small change. However, the Opéra area is known for pickpockets and fake surveyors, making cash-carrying travelers easy targets.
I ducked into the nearby Galeries Lafayette to escape. Inside, the bustling crowd shopped for luxury goods amid the lavish domed ceiling, creating a surreal contrast. It felt like two different Parises coexisting.
「It was the best of times. It was the worst of times」
